Pedalear 120 kms de vuelta a casa (es casi una experiencia religiosa)

Publicado por disorder.cl

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Por Luc Gajardo (en la foto junto a Niño de Cobre, su compañero en esta aventura).

“Yendo en bicicleta es como mejor se conocen los contornos de un país, pues uno suda ascendiendo a los montes y se desliza en las bajadas”.

-Ernest Hemingway

Cuchillos congelados atraviesan tus agarrotados y entumecidos muslos mientras subes una montaña infinita, y no ves nada más que una pequeña luz en medio de la carretera y la persigues pero no la pillas y llevas más de 5 horas pedaleando, es entonces cuando te cuestionas si esto era o no una buena idea.

A la mierda. Que el mismísimo Diablo se aparezca y me eyacule y se cague en mi cara para intentar deternerme. A fin de cuentas:

1. no tengo ni la más mínima moral deportista ni la capacidad pulmonar ni muscular.
2. dudo  profundamente de la existencia de Dios.

¿Qué chucha hago volado como un puto cohete intentando cruzar 120 kilometros de Santiago a Valparaíso de noche en bicicleta en medio de una procesión religiosa?

Pero de algo se trata, aunque no estoy seguro de qué.

De probar algo.

De arrancar, quizá.

Más que de huir, arrancar de sacar de cuajo, de separar aguas, sospecho.

La idea se nos había metido en la cabeza con Niño de Cobre y Simón. Este último, hace unos meses, en uno de los actos más desquiciados de amistad, se subió a mi Gary Fisher y se vino desde Santiago a Viña a traérmela. La mala raja es que lo pescó la lluvia y terminó la cruzada mojado como pico arriba de un bus. Pero llegó. Niño de Cobre la había hecho antes, también en medio de la noche. Solo. De aburrido. La idea era ahora hacerlo los tres aprovechando el cierre de la carretera por la procesión a Lo Vasquez.

Simón cagó por compromisos artisticos.

Cobre dijo vamos.

«De todas tus malas ideas, esta por lo menos, tiene a favor que elegiste un momento en que no te puede hacer cagar un camión» dijo mi amigo Bachata Rosa, el jugador de pool anteriormente conocido como Bashiño, el caeza de jibia más famoso del puerto.

Recuerdo esas palabras bajando hecho una corneta saliendo del Tunel Lo Prado donde recién se había vivido un sahumerio, a lo que -asumo- deben ser algo más de 60 kms por hora. Con las piernas y los brazos conectados con toda la fuerza y la fe a los pedales y el manubrio. Y el viento como una muralla de hielo chocando contra mi cara haciendo lagrimear los ojos. No hay espacio para el error. Te caes, te matas. Así de sencillo. Y esa sensación de control absoluto, es algo que, en este minuto, a oscuras, adelantando palpitantes luces rojas traseras, escuchando nada más que el ruido blanco y frío del aire cortarse, es lo más parecido a la calma que he sentido en mucho tiempo. Contrarestar el  despelote interno con un escenario de caos y locura tan superior, torna todo misteriosamente zen. Se equiparan fuerzas. Se vuelve por minutos a los cabales.

El autor cruzando el túnel Lo Prado.

La procesión a Lo Vasquez siempre se me había presentado como una hueá deschabetada del segmento c3-fanático-religioso. En mi cabeza no era más que una nota estigmatizadora y burlona del periodismo cuico y facho ad portas de volverse veraniego, soltándose el nudo de la corbata para dejar fluir un poco, si es que queda algo, de sangre fresca al cerebro. Una mierda de periodistas pajeros y obedientes. En estas notas, puedes ver tipos arrástrandose de guata o de espalda, de rodillas, o a pata, hasta llegar al santuario y ofrecer humildemente el esfuerzo masoca a cambio de un favor celestial. Pasando y pasando. Mucha gente se rie de esto, se burla clasistamente. A mi no me parece un trato injusto. Por lo demás, la procesión está lejos de ser propiedad exclusiva de los fanaticos religiosos. Aunque es su idea y es buena, la caminata o cicletada a lo Vasquez la hacen miles de hueones, casi un millón.

No es algo estrictamente religioso, de la manera tradicional, para todos. Es también una experiencia solitaria, familiar, mística, silenciosa, carretera. De carrete, con amigos, pero también de algo más chalado aún: la carretera que es por excelencia una postal medio muerta, cobra vida. Llena de gente en un éxodo sacrificado, en muchos casos porque es la última puta hueá que puedes hacer si tu vida es una completa mierda. Otros, porque es un panorama exótico, íntimo, reflexivo. O deportivo. O asumirlo como una desquiciada carrera contra todos los demás, pero sobre todo contra uno. Que era mi caso. Que queria batir un record inexistente e imposible.

A las 8 pm más o menos del jueves llegamos con Cobre a la plaza de Los Heroes. Ahí había un amable tipo llamado Mario que pensamos era el cabronazo de la cicletada. Lo saludamos y empezó a contar la historia de cuando protagonizó un accidente múltiple a la entrada del Tunel Zapata. Le echó la culpa a que iba con mochila, a lo que Cobre respondió que la verdadera mochila la llevaba en la guata. Eso y ver que varios ciclistas empezaban a pasar cagando por la Alameda para abajo nos hizo partir envueltos en adrenalina y terror por la calle en dirección a la Ruta 68, dejando atrás a Mario, que se quedó devorando una caja de Chewys sin cachar mucho por qué un colorín volado, que ni conocía, se estaba burlando de él.

Es dificil no caer en profundas reflexiones mientras vas transpirando como un cerdo y viendo como cientos de personas; caballos, parejas, familias y humanos de todas las edades, se empiezan a sumar a la procesión, mientras los colores morado, rosado, azul despiden la luz del día y avisan que se  nos viene la noche. Se piensa en la relatividad de la velocidad, el tiempo y el espacio. Uno cree ir rajado pero eso al lado de un auto o un bus es la velocidad de una tortuga. Partamos de la base que esos 120 kms en auto o bus te toman hora y media y el tiempo estimado para nosotros era de 6 a 8. Toda la noche.

Esos 120 km siempre han significado una especie de distanciamiento. Los recorro muy seguido, en bus, casi siempre. Desde que empecé a hacerlo dejé de ser de ningún lado. Esos 120 km terminaron por alejarme de los dos extremos. Quizá donde me siento más cómodo es justamente entre medio, en la carretera. Ahora la idea era definir una posición, mandar a la chucha y dejar atrás esa ciudad de mierda que es Santiago y volver a mi tierra natal.

¿Con la cola entre las piernas? ¿Hecho pico? ¿Derrotado? ¿Convertido en un chiste culiado repetido y un curado odioso? Puede ser. Pero desde otra perspectiva es también velar por las cosas que están primero, como la familia. Igual que Jax Teller de «Sons of Anarchy», pero en vez de motoquero traficante de armas, era yo. Un periodista que se ha mandado tantas cagadas que terminó expulsado de una ciudad y ahora se autoexiliaba de otra con un saco de malas decisiones sobre los hombros. Esta vez, recorrer los 120 de regreso a casa iban a significar un esfuerzo bastante mayor, por lo simbolico de la hueá. Porque significaba barrer y guardarse cada uno de esos kilometros.

Primero, llegar a la carretera. Pasar por Curacaví convertido en un carnaval. Subir y bajar. Pasar los túneles bajo esas luces que configuran quizá los momentos más irreales del circuito. Pese a que todo el viaje tiene un tufillo a estar soñando algo tipo «Carretera Perdida». Llegar a Lo Vásquez y encontrarse con una feria libre interminable en donde venden toda clase de basura y suenan rancheras tributo a Camiroaga y sonreir cómplice con otra canción que decia algo como «soy falopero, marihuanero y alcohólico». Desde una camioneta, con un lienzo de un centro de rehabilitación, ofrecen merchandising religioso. Y la familia chilena peregrina y vitrinea pobre, en masa y feliz, con la esperanza inquietante de que esa manda se cumpla, mientras mastica un anticucho de perro.

En el último trecho el flujo peregrino cambia de dirección. Ahora es gente que viene de Valparaiso, Placilla, Rodelillo, Viña, subiendo. La mayoría sin ninguna condenada luz. La mayoria wachiturros carreteando que a esa altura de la noche parecen zombies que hay que esquivar apenas logra uno iluminarlos a último minuto con la pequeña linterna de minero que llevamos amarradas en nuestras frentes. Un desafío que aumenta en dificultad cuando vas sudando gotas heladas, el frío endurece los músculos, el cansancio aturde y la última subida parece no llegar nunca y lo único que te impulsa a seguir dale que suene son las estrellas fugaces, la posibilidad de un encuentro OVNI y la promesa de la última bajada soñada a una velocidad impropable por Santos Ossa que, al aparecer iluminada y peligrosa finalmente, te dice que llegaste a casa y que es hora de acostarse raja y soñar con cambiar de piel, como las serpientes.

En la plaza Anibal Pinto una pareja de vendedores de hamburguesas de soya se putea a gritos y termina sacándose la chucha en una indigna, triste, confusa y curada pelea a combos, patadas, y tirones de pelo. Nosotros celebramos la llegada a la meta luego de 6 horas y media, tragando a desesperados tragos latas de cerveza tibia.

Comentarios publicados en "Pedalear 120 kms de vuelta a casa (es casi una experiencia religiosa)"

¡Deja el tuyo!
  • Buena la historia loco.

    esos son desos piques que hay que hacerlos una vez en la vida pa contarla, y la contaste bien.

    wendy

  • Ignacio

    Aprendan, weoncitos, aprendan de una puta vez. Todo el día tuiteando que están viendo a Astro y el In-Edit, y se han olvidado de escribir. Que este texto les sirva de inspiración para volver a situarse ante un teclado, lápiz, lo que sea, De seguro no podrán transmitir como acá se hace, pero al menos no se sentirán tan lacras y chantas con la vida que llevan, ya que realizarán el ejercicio. Tal vez tienen cero talento, pero, puta, igual inténtelo. Ustedes saben quien son. Bien lo saben, chantitas. Ahora escriban algo y que ese algo no sea un tuiteo o un simple comentario.

  • slz_

    un deshonroso último párrafo para una crónica magnifica que, aunque no terminé de leer, considero recomendable.

  • rubén

    Qué buena crónica. Me dieron ganas de hacer lo mismo y me acordé de esa gente que sale en las noticias que hacen unos kilometros arrodillados. Fuerte.

  • juan pablo

    La puta subida después de Curacaví. Interminable. Pero arriba estaban todos, como un club de winners que logró subir 7,2km con el cambio más liviano. Pero ahí estábamos, con el poto desaparecido y con la sensación de haber competido contra uno mismo y haber ganado. Fue bello llegar a valpo y ser recibido con aplausos.

  • que bonito. lloré un poco. pero ni cagando con lágrimas porque nunca tan llorona.

  • Barry Glitmore

    Luzio ahora tiene mas pantorrilla q Roberrto Carlos.

  • Un notable relato que contiene los ingredientes precisos para leerlo de comienzo a fin; aventuras, nostalgia, redención y peleas.
    la cagó!

  • beaatriz

    luc es un bagam y lloré con el texto, pero más me lloraron los ojos cuando leí «echo pico» sin h.

  • Fefoelconejo

    Surealista, grande Luc, ACTITUD WILFRED!!!

  • andres

    el renacer de un grande.

  • Pablo

    excelente crónica y además estya bien rico wn.

  • mauricio

    me dio rabia seguir leyendo a este hemmingway al peo que se pasa a caca porque jala, fuma, toma, y por jactarse de tener un amigo burlón.

    pese a todo, hay varias reflexiones destacables. Recuerdo que recorrí la costa este de Chiloé en bicicleta y efectivamente uno cae en reflexiones profundas y reveladoras mientras tus piernas pedalean solas. Una experiencia enriquecedora en muchos sentidos, sobretodo mentales (y espirituales pal que lo sea. Yo tampoco creo en dios).

  • Eduardo K.

    Esperaba la historia de la vuelta a Santiago! Yo era uno de los miles el miercoles, pero de lo vasquez me fui a Villa Alemana a casa de unos amigos y de ahi de vuelta en bus.

    El proximo año pedaleo de vuelta 🙂 El camino de ida se me hizo facil. Mas largo que la cresta, pero facil.

  • kyra

    me dieron ganas de partir así.

  • Verónica Díaz

    Muy bien, la mejor manera de votar la mala energía acumulada por las malas decisiones durante el año, con razón note al Luc mas bendecido! ahora seguiré su ejemplo y partiré de viña a illapel, pero en bus con mi bicicleta en el maletero 😀

  • Verónica Díaz

    botar la mala energía… quise decir todo el rato pero la V y la B están juntas (chanta)

  • sallato

    llevo mas de 15 años viajando a LoVasquez, siempre somos los mismos algunos cada vez mas gordos, otros mas pelados y canosos.
    No me la pierdo por nada del mundo, ese dia es para mi y mi hijo que ahora va conmigo.
    No voy por cuestiones religiosas, nunca lo ha sido.

  • La raja la historia.
    Nunca me he animado a hacerla, pero leer weas así me dan ánimo de hacer weas «enfermas», «estúpidas» y «sin sentido». Pero es de esas que hay que hacer.. y probablemente más de una vez.

    Tendré que acordarme el próximo año, para hacerla.
    buena historia man.

  • Un zorrón se va en hummer, con chofer, haciendo máquinas y tomando piscolas puritanas

  • hice el mismo pique, pero las fotos de mierda (al respaldar la microSD) se perdieron

    vale la pena repetir ese pique, y es una loca experiencia 😀

  • Hombre, cuando te leo, parece no que estuviera leyendo a un chileno, sino conversando con uno. Felicidades, Luco, y un fuerte abrazo desde México.

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